Destination: Verbier, a Swiss mountain town that is anything but neutral

So there I was, sipping on a Carlsberg while listening to a cover band bust out a string of hits from the likes of AC/DC, The Stooges and The Black Keys. The musicians were dressed in drag, and as they belted out the chorus of You Shook Me All Night Long, the tambourine player jumped off the stage with a liquor bottle in hand. He started pouring booze down my throat as I looked up towards the ceiling. Just then, the roof retracted and it started snowing inside the bar. Was this some sort of dream? No. This was Sunday evening at the Après Ski Bar in Verbier, Switzerland.

Skier standing above the town of Verbier.

Perched on a hillside, about two hours east of Geneva, this mountain town has everything you could want from a ski destination, including a raucous après scene like the aforementioned one. In addition, the terrain is seemingly endless, and whether you’re a full-time resident, a ski bum “seasonaire,” or just visiting town for a few days, you’ll be hard pressed to ski it all.

Verbier is just one of the four valleys that make up the Les 4 Vallées ski area. The other three are Nendaz, Veysonnaz and Thyon. The base of Verbier is situated at 4,921 feet above sea level, and the highest point of Les 4 Vallées, the summit of Mont Fort, is at 10,925 feet. One gondola, one chairlift and two tram rides from the base, the peak offers a spectacular view of the Alps that includes the Matterhorn to the southeast and Mont Blanc to the southwest. Between all four valleys, the area has close to a hundred different lifts, gondolas and trams that zig-zag across the vast terrain and provide access to some of the best skiing in the world. Each lift ride offers a different perspective as you gaze at the couloirs and bowls of peaks that you can ski in almost every direction.

Watch: Xtreme Verbier highlights.

Given the sheer size of the resort, it takes a couple of days to get your bearings. After that, it’s pretty easy to get around, though there’s always a new zone to stumble upon. Just under Mont Fort, at Col Gentianes, you have the option of heading toward any corner of the resort, and can get a prime view of the infamous Bec des Rosses, which plays host to the Xtreme Verbier freeride competition every spring. If you’re not quite ready for that challenge, you can take a high traverse that accesses a hike called Stairway to Heaven. A 15-minute climb (straight) up the bootpack gives you access to a number of wide-open powder fields along with a satisfyingly steep couloir that I felt compelled to jump into. Not a bad decision after the snow gods blessed the resort with a spring dump of waist deep snow. The turns were some of the best I’d have all season. I love it when a plan comes together.

From the top of Stairway to Heaven, you can also scout a line off the backside of Mont Gelé, which is accessed by another tram. The second tallest peak in the resort offers a variety of terrain that will likely leave you with a shit-eating grin on your face. I could go on for days about all the different peaks and valleys, but rest assured, if you like it steep and deep, you’ll be in your element here.

The town of Verbier itself offers an array of restaurants, a thriving nightlife, a bounty of hotels and plenty of good people to boot. Brits, Scots, Frenchies, Aussies and even a few Swiss make up a large part of the community here. Some of them have carved out a nice life for themselves while others are simply here for the season, to pour some beers, beat you in darts and ski as much of the amazing terrain as they can.

Switzerland in general is not a cheap place to travel, but if you’re smart about your choices, you can have your fun without breaking the bank (unless that’s your thing). As Verbier sits on the side of the hill with the Medran gondola plaza up top, some of the more expensive hotels sit higher up. At the valley floor is a little town called Le Châbel, with some cheaper lodging options. If you choose to stay down there, you can take the gondola up to Verbier, but note that it doesn’t run all night. If you want to experience some nightlife, you’re better off spending a few extra bucks to stay in Verbier.

If you’re trying to eat on a budget, there are a couple of take-out windows in town that will give you the best bang for your buck. But don’t forget to try some local cuisine. Check out Relais des Neiges or Le Caveau, both on the main drag of Rue de Medran, for some raclette or fondue.

Finally, if you’re looking to hit the town post-dinner, you have a few options. Your first stops should be at The Loft Bar or Pub Mont Fort. Both have a casual atmosphere, drink specials and plenty of locals to banter with. If the wee hours of the morning are when you really shine, then Casbah, the Farm Club or Twin Peaks will be right up your alley. Get sweaty on the dance floor and don’t worry that you’ll be way too hungover to make a decent turn in the morning. Just delay your flight and stay a few extra days. When the time comes, getting to or from the airport is relatively easy. You can reserve a shuttle with AlpyBus for about $60 or save a few bills by taking the train.

So, whether you’re on a mission to ball out or just want to get the authentic European ski experience, Verbier will not disappoint. Book your flight, pack your skis and get ready for a ski trip that you will likely never stop bragging about.

Note: This article appears in FREESKIER magazine Volume 17.5, The Photo Annual. The issue is available via iTunes Newsstand. Subscribe to FREESKIER magazine.