Snaking its way through the Kootenay Mountains of British Columbia, Canada’s Powder Highway is by all accounts the crown jewel of North American ski road trips. I’ve been hearing this for years and, considering the multitude of world-class resorts, cat skiing lodges and heli operations in the region, I’ve never doubted it. While I’ve been lucky enough to go on a few ski trips through Alberta and British Columbia, I’ve never had the time to connect the dots. This year, with ski conditions lacking in the Western US and fat flakes falling up north, my girlfriend and I decided it was time to turn the dream into a reality.
There are myriad ways to plan a Powder Highway trip but we wanted to ensure a flexible schedule and a plan that wouldn’t break the bank. We could plan a route, rent a car and book a line of hotels along the way but the downfall would be a lack of flexibility to chase storms or spend an extra day exploring a zone we particularly liked. We could also reserve a week of high-end luxury at a heli skiing lodge that surely wouldn’t disappoint but my bank account doesn't have enough zeros at the moment.
Luckily, two friends of ours were also interested in heading north with their truck camper and suggested we rent a van and tag team a road trip. After carefully considering our options and researching different rental companies, we called up Karma Campervans, booked ourselves a hotel on wheels and landed in Alberta, Canada, less than a week later.
The Powder Highway region includes 8 resorts and 20-plus cat and heli skiing operations across Eastern British Columbia. After studying the forecast and considering our 10-day timeline, we decided on a counterclockwise route that would take us to six resorts: Banff-Sunshine Village, Lake Louise, Kicking Horse, Revelstoke, Whitewater and Fernie. While Banff and Lake Louise aren’t part of the officially official Powder Highway list, the snow totals at both resorts, along with their convenient locations, made them easy additions to our trip.
PICKING UP THE VAN
Karma Campervans has a number of locations across Eastern and Western Canada, with the best options for skiers being Vancouver and Calgary. Our sights were set on the deepening snowpack around the border of Alberta and British Columbia so we decided that Calgary would be the best pickup location. It was 79-degrees in Denver on the day we left and -4-degrees in Calgary. We couldn’t have been happier about the temperature swing—we had finally found winter.
We landed in Calgary late in the evening and took a 15-minute Uber ride to Karma’s office where our van was ready to go. All of the details had been emailed to us the day prior so we just punched in the key code, loaded up our gear and were on our way.
Karma’s rigs are built on a Ford Transit chassis with all-wheel drive, tall ceilings and an extended length that offers tons of living space, a queen size bed and plenty of gear storage (easily fits a pair of 190cm skis). Rentals come with everything you need to cook food along the way and the vans are equipped to run fully off-grid, but can also be plugged-in at campsites to conserve battery power.
Most importantly, the heaters in these vans are amazing. We had frigid temperatures throughout our trip, which was great for ski conditions but slightly concerning when we thought about sleeping at night. As somebody who hasn’t spent much time camping in a van, I was thoroughly impressed with how easy it was to stay comfortable at night and dry out all the gear that we hung inside the van.
SEGMENT 1: CALGARY, AB > BANFF, AB
80 miles / 128 kilometers
Destinations: Banff Sunshine Village & Lake Louise (IKON Pass Resorts)
The first leg of the trip was an easy, 90-minute drive from Calgary to the town of Banff. This would be our homebase for skiing Sunshine Village (15 minutes west) and Lake Louise (40 minutes west). The town has no shortage of eclectic restaurants, lively bars, ski shops and even a bowling alley if you’re looking for something to do at night.
Skiing at Banff Sunshine Village:
Sunshine Village straddles the border of Alberta and British Columbia, with a unique layout that puts the hub of the resort at the mid-mountain village. From there, you have a number of options for great skiing. Head up the Super Angel Express lift to access The Shoulder and a number of other steep pitches on the lower half of Lookout Mountain—or continue over to the Great Divide Express to get to the top of Lookout Mountain and into the Delirium Dive zone (conditions permitting and avalanche safety gear required). Lower down on the resort, the Goat’s Eye Express will bring you up to the steep and deep South Side Chutes, as well as the Wild West zone (conditions permitting and avalanche safety gear required).
Sprawling terrain at Banff Sunshine Village
Sprawling terrain at Banff Sunshine Village
Skiing at Lake Louise Ski Resort
The expansive terrain at Lake Louise is what skiers like Cole Richardson and Eric “Hoji” Hjorleifson cut their teeth on—proving that it’s worth a visit—and the jaw-dropping views of the Canadian Rockies don’t hurt either. From the base, take the Glacier Express and Top of the World lifts, or Juniper Express to Pipestone Express lift, to access the Summit Chair. From the top, you can hit the West Bowl on the front side of the resort or drop off the back side of Whitehorn Mountain into massive powder fields with steep pitches. As patrol works to open up new terrain on powder days, keep your eyes open for rope drops and jump out on the Boomerang ridge as soon as you can. Check out the interactive trail map here to get a feel for the full resort.
Camping Recommendation:
The Tunnel Mountain II Campground is a government-operated property that’s just 2.5 kilometers from downtown, open year-round, and has a ton of RV spaces with convenient electrical hookups. If you want to head into town at night and leave the van in your spot, you can pay $2 CAD for a convenient bus ride to and from town.
Reservations: parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/banff
Cost: $34 - $40 CAD per night
Amenities: Heated bathrooms and showers, electrical hookups, public transit
Local Recommendations:
Yama Onigiri (Banff) - Tasty Japanese rice treats are the new après nachos.
Three Bears Brewery & Restaurant (Banff) - Pub food, pizza and entrees for everybody.
Tommy's Neighbourhood Pub (Banff) - Local watering hole with a classic bar menu
Hi Rollers (Banff) - Bowling alley with live music on select nights
Nikko Ramen (Sunshine Village) - Delicious noodle bowls at the mid-mountain village
Chimney Corner (Sunshine Village) - A sit-down restaurant for a relaxed lunch or après by the fire place. The menu has a diverse selection of sandwiches, bowls and pizza but our crew liked the Gnocchi and smashburger the most.
Polar Ice Palace (Lake Louise) - Grab a cocktail at the ice bar and gather around a fire pit at the end of a long ski day
SEGMENT 2: LAKE LOUISE, AB > GOLDEN, BC
52 Miles / 85 Kilometers
Destination: Kicking Horse (EPIC Pass Partner)
After a bluebird powder day at Lake Louise, we hopped in the van for a 60-minute drive west, crossing over the provincial border and landing in Golden, British Columbia. The town of Golden is about half the size of Banff and sees considerably less traffic. As more visitors have started coming through in recent years, however, new bars and restaurants have been opening up and the local scene has started to grow.
Endless steeps and deep turns at Kicking Horse. Photo: Maur Mere Media
Endless steeps and deep turns at Kicking Horse. Photo: Maur Mere Media
Skiing at Kicking Horse
Thanks to its spicy terrain, Kicking Horse has played host to numerous Freeride World Tour events over the past decade and while it’s not on the calendar this year, the plethora of steep chutes and powdery bowls should definitely have a place on yours. Zones like Whitewall, Ozone, CPR Ridge and Redemption Ridge offer seemingly endless technical descents to satisfy your frothy desires. Check out the trail map here for an overview of the vast terrain you can access across the resort.
Camping Recommendation:
The Golden Riverfront Campground is a family operation that sits about 10 minutes from town and 25 minutes from the ski resort. The owners were super accommodating, plowing out the new snow ahead of our arrival, answering any questions we had and making sure we were comfortably situated.
Reservations: goldencampground.ca/
Cost: ~$35 CAD per night
Amenities: Electrical hookups, heated bathhouse with restrooms, showers and laundry
Contact: 1-250-344-6825 / reservations@goldencampground.ca
Local Recommendations:
Ethos Cafe - Superb breakfast joint on the way to the resort. Grab a coffee and a loaf of sourdough bread to make breakfast sandwiches in the parking lot, or try the Brekky Roll if you don’t feel like cooking.
Stolen Bell Distillery - Craft cocktails, delicious food and great happy hour deals.
Reposados - Tasty margaritas, tacos and burritos in a cozy downtown joint.
SEGMENT 3: GOLDEN, BC > REVELSTOKE, BC
91 miles / 148 Kilometers
Destination: Revelstoke Mountain Resort (IKON Pass)
The route from Golden to Revelstoke winds its way through Glacier National Park, up and over Rogers Pass, making it one of the most picturesque drives along the entire trip. When we descended into Revelstoke, the town’s railway and timber history felt almost as evident as the contemporary ski culture. Trucks with sled decks line the streets and numerous heli-skiing offices can be found tucked between the array of downtown shops and restaurants.
Skiing at Revelstoke Mountain Resort
When the resort opened in 2007, it immediately surpassed Whistler Blackcomb to claim the longest vertical drop in North America—5,620 feet. From the modest base area, you can take two consecutive gondolas and then jump on the Stoke chair to access the goods atop Mt. MacKenzie. The North Bowl, on the backside of the resort, is a playground full of bowls, chutes and drops of various sizes. On powder days, you’ll want to hit the Lemming Line and Sub Peak hikes as soon as they open—these will get you access to the best terrain so keep an eye out for rope drops. Keep in mind, the only lift access out of the North Bowl is the Ripper chair and it closes at 2:30pm. If you miss that, you’ve got some hiking to do. On the Front side, the South Bowl offers steep pitches and great gladed skiing while Vertigo Ridge will get you into the wide-open Separate Reality Bowl and fun lines like Hysteria and Mental Health, a little further down.
With the longest vertical drop in North America, Revelstoke Mountain Resort is not for the faint of heart. Photo: Nat Segal
With the longest vertical drop in North America, Revelstoke Mountain Resort is not for the faint of heart. Photo: Nat Segal
Recommended Camping
The Revelstoke RV & Cabin Resort is about 5 minutes from downtown and has plenty of RV sites for rent. The heated bathrooms and showers are great and WiFi available but only around the bathhouse and outdoor gazebo.
Reservations: revelstokecampground.com
Cost: ~$65/night
Amenities: WiFi, electrical hookups, heated bathhouse with restrooms and showers
Pro Tip: If you want to go into town and have a few drinks, call Johnnie's Taxi for a ride. Tip well on the way in and you’ll likely get a ride home at the end of the night.
Local Recommendations:
The Taco Club - Great margaritas and Mexican food in the heart of town. Get there early to avoid waiting for a table.
Little Spoon Bakery - Breakfast cafe on the way to the resort—the cinnamon buns here are a must.
The Village Idiot - The locals’ joint for pints, pizza and burgers.
The Boiler Room - Intimate speakeasy that you won’t find on a map. After 7pm, look for a red light in the alley on the southeast side of the Eleven Revelstoke Lodge. Ring the bell and cross your fingers.
The Boiler Room cocktails do not disappoint.
The Boiler Room cocktails do not disappoint.
SEGMENT 4: REVELSTOKE, BC > NELSON, BC
155 Miles / 250 Kilometers
Destination: Whitewater Mountain Resort
When you hit the road from Revelstoke to Nelson, you’ll want to keep in mind that there’s a ferry crossing at Shelter Bay on Upper Arrow Lake, which is about 40 minutes south of Revy. It leaves every hour, on the hour, and is free of charge. When you hit the Eastern shore, you’ll be only 10 minutes from Halcyon Hot Springs which is a great place to soak your quads for a bit. From there, it’s about two and a half hours of mellow driving before you land in the soulful (read: hippy) town of Nelson. This was my third visit and I love the laid back feel, live music and artistic vibe.
Staying at the Hummingbird Campground on a clear night gives you a stellar view the next day's objectives.
Staying at the Hummingbird Campground on a clear night gives you a stellar view the next day's objectives.
Skiing at Whitewater:
Just 20 minutes south of Nelson, Whitewater is a community-first ski hill defined by its lack of pretension and abundance of snow. Presided over by Ymir Peak, the resort has a modest 1,300 acres of lift-serviced terrain, with an average annual snowfall of 40 feet and gated access to incredible backcountry-touring terrain. The pace of life up here is pleasantly slow and the lack of cell service encourages you to soak in your surroundings. While the resort isn’t huge, it’s slowly expanding (check out the new Raven lift), the terrain is great and the lack of traversing means you can rip fall line laps until your legs give out. When that happens, head inside and grab some of the best on-mountain food you’ll ever find at a ski resort.
Recommended Camping:
The Hummingbird Lodge and Campground is situated at the base of Whitewater Mountain Resort and was our favorite campsite along the route. They have a limited number of serviced RV Sites with 30-amp electrical hookups, as well as unserviced RV Sites, but they do fill up so you should book in advance if you want to stay here. The Hummingbird cafe has great food, coffee and WiFi, making it the perfect place to catch up on some work (if you must). The best part—you can ski right back to the van at the end of the day.
Reservations: hummingbirdlodge.ca/
Cost: $39-$48 CAD per night
Amenities: WiFi, electrical hookups, heated restrooms and showers, onsite cafe
Location: 6010 Whitewater Road, Nelson, BC
Contact: 1-250-352-6954 / info@hummingbirdlodge.ca
Local Recommendations:
Red Light Ramen - Grab a ginger margarita and bowl of miso ramen to soothe your soul
Oso Negro - This coffee shop and cafe is a community staple
Marzano - High-quality italian food with good vibes
Ashman’s Smash Burgers - Smash burgers with poutine?! Yes, please.
SEGMENT 5: NELSON BC > FERNIE, BC
202 Miles / 326 Kilometers
Destination: Fernie Alpine Resort (EPIC Pass Partner)
Clocking in at three and a half hours, this was the longest leg of the trip—just barely edging out the segments before and after—but a relatively easy drive, nonetheless.
Skiing at Fernie Alpine Resort
Anchored by the jagged limestone of the Lizard Range, Fernie is a big-mountain beast with a small-town soul. Similar to Kicking Horse, the resort features a spread of 5 massive, alpine bowls—Currie, Timber, Lizard, Siberia, and Cedar— but the terrain varies between technically demanding steeps and perfectly spaced trees. It feels raw and rugged, yet entirely inviting. When your quads finally surrender to the steeps, the only logical move is to slide into the Griz Bar at the base for a pint and a toast to the snow gods.
A true powder day at Fernie is something you'll never forget. Photo: Steve Reed
A true powder day at Fernie is something you'll never forget. Photo: Steve Reed
Recommended Camping:
Fernie Alpine Resort offers FREE overnight camping in Lot 4, on a first-come, first-served basis. Washrooms in the plaza are open overnight and the resort welcomes campers to stay for a couple of nights. Come prepared to be self-sufficient because there aren't any other amenities, or electrical hookups, but the true hook-up is the fact that you'll be first in the lift line the next morning!
Local Recommendations:
Griz Bar - The go-to spot for après at the resort
Nevados - Super cool vibe, with insanely delicious tapas and margaritas. They don't take reservations so you'll want to get there early. Pro tip - Get a margarita jug because you will want more than one.
Lunchbox - Great lunch spot with unique sandwich wraps and smoothies.
SEGMENT 6: FERNIE, BC > CALGARY, AB
186 Miles / 300 Kilometers
Destination: Reality (The Airport)
The final leg of the journey takes you north along the Cowboy Trail (Highway 22). It’s about a three-hour cruise back to the Karma depot in Calgary. The mountains give way to rolling foothills and massive ranch lands that stretch to the horizon—a stark contrast to the deep, jagged valleys of the interior.
DROPPING OFF THE VAN
Returning the van was super easy—though emotionally painful because it meant we were heading home. It was after hours when we pulled into the Karma lot. We unloaded our gear, did a quick clean-up, locked the van and jumped in an Uber to the airport. I love how easy they make the whole process.
5 TIPS FOR CRUSHING VAN LIFE ON THE POWDER HIGHWAY
After 10 days, countless powder turns and a little over 1,300 kilometers (we’re so Canadian), we learned a few things. If you’re planning to follow our tracks, keep these tips in mind.
Plan lightly: We did plan our general route ahead of time but we didn’t commit to a specific itinerary. When the snow was good (or we just felt like it) we stayed a little longer. Campsites were generally available wherever we went but some of them do fill up. It’s good to check a few out ahead of time, even if you’re not ready to reserve a spot, just so you know what your options are.
Keep a close eye on the forecast: This is something all skiers are prone to do but it’s doubly important on this trip—for skiing and driving. Each of these resorts has its own microclimate and can be getting vastly different amounts of snow at certain points. Also, the roads between them (e.g. Rogers Pass) can often close due to weather and avalanche conditions.
Manage Your Moisture: The heater in the van did a great job of drying everything out quickly but we were also careful to keep as much snow and moisture out of the van as we could. Bring a towel or two to put down inside the sliding door to save your floor from turning into a slip-n-slide.
Stay Organized: There’s a ton of storage in Karma’s vans but with all the movement, it’s easy to turn your rolling guest house into a chaotic mess. Slow down for a second, organize your gear and put it away—backpack, cubbies, cabinets, etc. You’ll be much more comfortable.
Bring Two-Way Radios: Exploring new terrain is the most fun you can have on skis but trying to find your friends when you get separated can eat up a ton of your time. Clip a radio to your collar or throw it in your pocket and you’ll save yourself hours along the way. BONUS: Bantering between the rigs while you drive!
WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?
If you've made it this far, you're clearly considering this trip. We made it happen with less than a week of planning and now you can too. Head over to Karma Campervans' website and book your rig. You won't regret it.






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